Oneonta Herald, Oneonta, NY, May 21, 1862
Civil War Soldier's Letter
Fort Riley, Kansas, April 30th, 1862
Dear Herald: When last I wrote you, we were at Fort Scott, "an hundred miles from nowhere, and no bridge to get back on," expecting and hoping for orders to move forward and reinforce Curtis. After eighteen days, orders came, one brigade went forward, ours waited for supplies. Two days after, our orders were countermanded, and our brigade was ordered to Lawrence for an outfit for New Mexico. Meanwhile, we had built a bridge to get back on and back we went, glad to be in motion again, though not in the direction we wished.
Our march to Lawrence was in the main a pleasant one. Our route for the first fifty miles was over the same section we passed through on our way down, but as the weather was pleasant and we in good spirits, the country looked pleasanter to us, and I formed a favorable opinion of it. But it was not until we reached the valley of the Kaw, that we began to see and appreciated the loveliness of Kansas scenery. From the hour that we gained the ridge overlooking the valleys of the Kaw and Wauharusha until the present, the whole scenery has been a grouping together of the new, picturesque, grand and beautiful. We left Fort Scott March 21st and arrived at Lawrence April 2d. Thus, ended out Lane-Hunter expedition. Having filled the post of historian of that great Humbug, please accept of my services as historian of the expedition to New Mexico, which I will denominate Humbug, No. 2.
We were told that five regiments and seven batteries would rendezvous at Lawrence and would then be furnished with clothing and equipment for six months. Besides our brigade, consisting of the 12th and 13th Wisconsin and 1st Kansas, we found there Jennison's celebrated Jay Hawkers. They were a fine regiment of cavalry and under admirable discipline. Jennison became dissatisfied while there and threw up his commission. I heard his farewell address to his soldiers and wish the powers that be could have heard it. He complained that the Government had pursued a do nothing policy. That while an armed foe was at their very doors, the Kansas troops had been allowed to do nothing but "march up the hill and then march down again," going hither and thither to suit contractors, save once when they were marched to the massacre at Springfield, and pitted against five times their number to be slain like sheep. That the promotions among Kansas officers had been from those who had once harassed and persecuted Free State men. That if he continued in the service he must serve under men who once dogged him like a beast and set a price on his head, and that he could not do with honor. That this was true not only of Kansas, but of the whole country. No anti-slavery man, whatever his merits and services could rise, for the whole management of the war had played into the hands of pro-slavery men, who were anxious to preserve the institution of human bondage. He exhorted his men to be faithful and obedient, but instead of minding him they deserted by scores. He went to Leavenworth, was there arrested for raising mutiny among his soldiers and sent to St. Louis and placed in close confinement. Kansas honors him!
We had not been in Lawrence long before it was thought best to send us to Fort Riley, where there was an abundance of hay for the horses and somebody wanted to sell beef; we having spent what few thousand we had to spare at Lawrence. So, without an outfit, we started about the 20th inst. and came here a distance of one hundred miles up the Kaw. The Kansas 2d mounted Infantry, was expected here, but they were ordered elsewhere to please somebody who wanted to sell corn.
Let me give you a description of the country between Lawrence and Fort Riley. The road for the first fifteen miles runs over the divide between the Kaw and Wauharusha. At a distance on the right, one catches a glimpse of the miserable village Lecompton, the Border Ruffian capital. The road then runs along the slope toward the Kaw to Topeka, the capital, a distance of ten miles. There it crosses the river, and for the next forty miles keeps up the valley, crossing the Pottawatomie reserve. The bottoms are dry and level and from four to six miles in width. The river hugs the bluff on the south, leaving the valley a smooth unbroken prairie. The valley is skirted on the north by a range of bluffs of easy ascent and covered with herbage. Of timber there was none, except a narrow strip along the river and to tributaries and in many places there was nothing but a row of cottonwood under the bank. The inhabitants are principally Indians, who have adopted civilized habits. About twenty-five miles from Topeka we passed the Catholic mission of St. Mary, where more than a hundred little redskins are fed, clothed and instructed. They were permitted to come out and see us as we passed and there was some tall staring done on both sides.
The streams of water putting into the Kaw, grew brighter and clearer as we progressed westward, having pebble bottom and a swift current. After crossing one of these called the Vermillion, the road leaves the bottoms and for fourteen miles runs over the rough country bordering the valley, sometimes crossing high ridges and then descending into the valley of some streams. Then it again strikes to Kaw bottoms, but now everything is changed, the valley is not one-third its former width, the river winds through it with hardly a bash to mark its course. The bluffs are steep, rocky and bare and as regular as if formed by art. Different ledges of rock jutting out one above another, give them the appearance of being terraced. Houses and farms were everywhere in sight. A few miles farther on, passing a narrow belt of timber, we crossed the Big Blue a few rods above its junction with the Kansas, and found ourselves "in town." All at once, as if my magic, a beautiful village rose around us, with large commodious churches, hotels, stores and schoolhouse. We were surprised and delighted to see where we supposed at most a few settlers' cabins, a village combining the neatness thrift and comfort of New England, with the freshness and fine natural scenery of the West. Such is Manhattan, standing on the advance guard of civilization, bright prophecy of culture, refinement and progress soon to cover the fields of the far West. Five miles beyond we caught a view of Fort Riley, eleven miles distant. The scenery continues varied and beautiful to the Fort and as far beyond as the eye can reach. The Fort stands on high ground. where the Republican and Smoky Hill Pork unite to form the Kansas. These streams are very turbid, being nearly the color of dirty soap suds.
While at Lawrence, I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Ford, formerly of Oneonta, who gave me a genuine New York welcome to this house. I had passed many pleasant hours at the house of his brother, Mr. J. Ford, of Franklin, while a student there, and now, while talking of old friends and mutual acquaintances, I seemed to live the old times over again. At Topeka, I visited Mrs. Thompson, formerly of Otego, and at Fort Riley, I found the Messrs. Newells of Laurens. They are "oft to the wars" now, their company having left the fort yesterday.
Fresh Buffalo beef has been brought into camp, and today some of our regiment have gone hunting. Of the country and events here, I will write more particularly hereafter.
Laurens