Chenango Union, Norwich, NY, April 27, 1864
Letter from 114th NY Infantry - Dr. H.H. Beecher
Ice House Hotel, Alexandria, La, March 31st, 1864
On or about the 20th inst., I received orders relieving me from duty at the Marine General Hospital, New Orleans, with which I had been pleasantly attached, requiring me to report for duty in the field.
After many hindrances and delays for want of transportation, on the evening of the 28th, I left on the steamer "Luminary" by way of the Mississippi and Red River, for this place. We had on board Gen. Grover and staff, several medical officers, the 7th Massachusetts Battery, eight of the ten Sergeants of the 114th who had been north on a recruiting tour, Lieutenant Thompson, of Co. I, and a large amount of army supplies.
Nothing of importance occurred during the trip. Reached Baton Rouge early Tuesday morning, at which place we stopped for a short time. Soon after breakfast we wooded at a dismal, dreary looking place, called "Prophet's Island," and about 12 o'clock passed the high and cragged cliffs of Port Hudson. Of this place and others intermediate between this and New Orleans, I intended to have given you an account, on the occasion of a trip I made up the river, partly to recuperate, and partly to visit some sick and wounded of the 114th at Baton Rouge, in September last. Failing to do so then, and not having the time, or the material at hand, cannot do so minutely now. Suffice it to say, that I visited Port Hudson with a great deal of interest, rendered memorable as it is in the annals of this war from the long siege and investment, and on account of the brave men and officers that fell in the desperate charges that were made May 27th and June 14th. The rebel works extended some seven miles, including, of course, a large area, some portion of which was quite heavily timbered, and a considerable portion of the remainder covered with thick underbrush and more or less filled with abrupt elevations and deep ravines.
Through the kindness of Capt. Clark, formerly of the 114th, who was assisting in the superintendence and construction of some new works, I was shown and carefully examined every part of the defenses - where the advance and charge were made by the "old Brigade" - where our brave chieftain, Col. Smith, the gallant Tucker, the youthful Corbin, and others fought and fell. I made, or rather, groped my way, for in no other manner was it possible, beyond the rebel fortifications, and examined with thrilling emotions, the pits, caves and excavations in which our soldiers sheltered themselves by day and night from the enemy's shot and shell. Old shoes and cast off garments were lying around, while the footprints of our brave men were still in the sand. Even the air was impregnated with the effluvia of decaying bodies, to which the rites of burial had been denied. Never, upon viewing the field of mortal conflict, did I experience such feelings as came over me there, and the like I hope never to experience again. It was then and there that I learned more than I could ever hope to know by reading or oral account, of the utter hopelessness of storming this strong hold of the enemy - of charging, defended as they were by well-nigh impassable defenses, the works of the persistent and relentless foe.
The federal works, which are now nearly or quite completed, are about one mile and a half in extent, well engineered and strongly put up, and are considered amply sufficient to hold the place against any and all attacks. The river above and below, as well as the works themselves, are commanded and protected by a redoubt with heavy guns on a high bluff, early in the center. The armament of the fort is very heavy, consisting of 55 or 60 guns.
With Baton Rouge, at which place I likewise spent a few days, I was highly pleased. Elevated in situation, which is not the case with most places here, although an ancient town, it presented more of the appearance of a northern city than any I have before seen in this part of the south. The State House, which was built a few years since, at a cost of $200,000, a magnificent structure, was nearly destroyed by fire, in January 1863. It contained rebel prisoners at the time, and it is supposed that it was the work of their own hands. Nothing but the bare and crumbling walls, a huge pile of brick and mortar and marble, remain - fit emblem of the broken and disjointed civil and political condition of the State.
The grounds of the State House, a plot of about six acres, facing the river, and which contained almost every variety of plants indigenous and exotic, and fruits and flowers of surpassing loveliness and beauty, together with an extensive fountain, the whole enclosed with a high iron railing, must, before being desolated by war and overrun by the tread of the soldiers, have been exceedingly beautiful to behold. Some idea may be formed of the neatness and care with which the grounds were kept, when it is stated that six men and an overseer at a high salary were constantly employed to dress and keep them in order. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is an imposing edifice, situated also on grounds beautiful and extensive. It is at present, except one wing, which contains a few mutes, used as a General Hospital. The Court House, Penitentiary, and other public buildings are mostly occupied for Hospitals, or otherwise subjected to army use.
Among the places of interest that I visited was the Magnolia or American burying ground, where repose many of our brave men who have fallen by disease or wounds received in battle - where too, the Noble Capt. Tucker sleeps the warrior's long sleep! As I stood by this soldier's grave, marked by an humble slate, I could not refrain from shedding a silent tear over his honored dust, as a feeble tribute to his memory and his worth.
I had the pleasure of an interview, and dined with, Walter Merrill, Esq., son of the late Sidney Merrill, of North Norwich, who has been many years a resident of the South, and is at present doing a thriving business at Baton Rouge.
The battle ground where our forces met and repulsed the enemy under Gen. Breckinridge, in August 1862, and the spot where General Williams was killed, are also places of interest. But I am rambling from my text - from the purposes of this hurried letter, and return to my true intent.
About sunset of Tuesday, the 29th, we neared the mouth of Red River, 205 miles from New Orleans, and some 150 from Alexandria. At this point, we were boarded by the Captain of the gunboat "Bragg" to see that no improper persons or articles were on board. The papers of citizens, especially, were examined with much care. Soon we entered Red River, which at its mouth is scarcely a quarter of a mile wide.
In one respect it is rightly named, for while the turbid waters of the Mississippi present a clayey appearance, the waters of this river have nearly the color of light brick. Had it been named crooked as well, a very good idea could be formed of its character and course, for it has the shortest turns and sharpest angles of any stream I ever saw in my life. By looking upon the map, particularly a late war map, you will notice well marked, its zig-zag appearance. There is one place, it is said, where it is necessary to pass a single house three times in getting by. In many places it is very narrow, which with the short curves and the sudden falling of its waters, makes it often difficult and dangerous to navigate with boats of ordinary size. In fact, the boat that brought us up, if stretched across the stream, would in numerous places form a perfect blockade.
At the mouth of the Black river, some 40 miles on our course up the Red, we lay to for a few hours in the night, and yesterday morning found us about 80 miles from this place, which we reached at 2 P.M. In coming up, nearly midway between this and the mouth of the river, we passed Fort De Russey, celebrated in Rebeldom as a point well-nigh invulnerable; sufficient at least to protect, to keep and to hold, this, to them indispensable water channel. The honor of capturing this Fort on the 14th of the present month, belongs to the 2d Brigade, Gen. Mower's Division of the 16th Army Corp of which Gen. A.J. Smith, together with a part of the 17th is in command. Of the 17th Crops, of which there is but one Division in the expedition, Gen. Thomas Kelly Smith is corps commander. They marched 28 miles, from near Smith's Post, built one or two bridges, and did this nice little job, in a single day. The main portion of the force was in reserve, ready to co-operate, at the same time expecting and prepared for an attack in the rear, by Dick Taylor, who, it was said, was approaching with 5,000 men. Doubtless he "smelt a rat" and changed his course. The Fort was commanded by Lt. Col. Bird. a Texan officer, and contained between 500 and 600 men.
An officer who was present at the fight, which for a time was sharp and spirited, and who was also present at the capture of Vicksburg, Jackson, and other places, informed me he never saw so intelligent, yet determined a body of confederates, as were in that Fort. Three hundred men and twenty-six officers were taken prisoners; a considerable number being conscripts. As soon as further resistance became useless they broke and fled into the woods. Eleven guns were captured, some of which were taken by the rebels from the "Indianola."
About 25 miles below Alexandria, we passed the wreck of the "Success," which the night before had been fired and sunk by the rebels. Nothing was to be seen but the jack staff, about one-third of its length above the water. It was at first stated to be a government transport, and had recently brought up a body of soldiers, but upon inquiry I leaned it was a private boat, in private employ, cruising not to seize "King Jeff," but to capture "King Cotton." The craft was tied up and the cruisers with a part of the officers and crew had gone ashore, their fires being permitted to go down - hence the misfortune, the capturers were captured!
Alexandria, containing 1,000 or 1,500 inhabitants, before the war must have been a very pleasant town, and a place of extensive business. It was a shipping port of much importance. Today, aside from soldiery, it looks like a deserted city. Places of business are closed and empty. They are lined with dirt and cobwebs as a stable, and from all appearances have long been hiding places for the owls and the bats. The streets and yards and public grounds are strewed with hens' feathers and bits of cotton; I should judge that all the heneries in the town and neighborhood had been robbed, and all the pickings and accumulated rubbish of years, from stores, shops and dwellings, had been thrown into the streets.
The "Ice House Hotel" is a large brick structure, but was evidently spoiled in making - or rather was not completed at all. I suppose it is not considered a first class house, as board in only $4 a day - lodgings thrown in. In kind and quality and quantity, eating is tough - sleeping worse. Hard place this for the soldier who wants a little extra, or a "poor man" on Lieutenant's pay. The Court House is a large edifice of brick, the windows stove in and otherwise damaged. It is converted into a General Hospital, and is at present mostly occupied by Marines, some 250 from the Marine Hospital boat, which was totally sunk in passing the falls, a short distance above.
The people here, and especially many who come in 25 or 30 miles from the country, "to take the oath," are, to all appearances - to all intents and purposes - the most Godforsaken of any upon earth. Lean and lank, ragged and filthy, shabbily dressed in butternut and gray - if such covering can be called a dress, and with tattered garments of every texture and hue - if these are fair samples of southern chivalry it seems to me that the rebellion is nearly done for, sure.
The 19th and a part of the 18th army corps, which left Franklin on the 15th, reached here by land on the 25th, Gen. Lee's cavalry a day or two before. Gen. Smith's command after reducing For De Russey, moved on and took possession of this place on the 18th. On the 22d, a detachment or division of the 16th corps, under Gen. Mowers, proceeded to Bayou Rapides and captured a rebel battery, of four guns with caissons, about 200 cavalry horses, 283 men and 21 officers.
It is estimated that there has been at Alexandria within the last ten days, between 40,000 and 50,000 troops, reckoning all branches of the service. On Monday, the 28th, the last of the forces, including the 19th army corps, except a portion of Gen. Grover's division, which is garrisoning the town, moved in the direction of Natchitoches, distant nearly 100 miles by water, about 80 by land.
That Shreveport is the immediate destination of this formidable army, is quite certain; beyond that, as to ulterior movements, all is conjecture. The turn and tide of events will doubtless shape the course of future action.
It is reported here that Shreveport is evacuated, which probably is not true. Another rumor is that Gen. Steel, who is expected to co-operate, and who has for some time held Archidelphia, and whose advance has been reported at Washington, Arkansas, has moved on and taken the place. Steel has a large and efficient cavalry force; so has General Banks, under the command of Gen. Lee; not much short of 20,000 men. It is hardly to be expected that the enemy will mass and stand battle at any point. Should they be defeated or evacuate their fortifications at Shreveport, the next place of retreat, it is believed, will be Marshall, Texas. Should the confederates elude our grasp, retreat, or scatter their force, some conjecture that the Federal troops will follow in pursuit or move down through the eastern part of Texas, upon Galveston, and take possession of the coast. Others think that a portion of the troops will be withdrawn, cross the Mississippi at some convenient point, march through the State, and go in to the attack of Mobile. Whatever else may be, it is pretty well settled that this channel of communication, and the whole Red River country included in the State of Louisiana, will be or should be permanently held.
What there is here of the 17th army corps, is only lent to this department, and are shortly to return to go to other fields of labor - they think to the Army of the Potomac.
Gen. Banks and staff are here, with headquarters on board the steamer "Black Hawk," which is kept expressly for his use; and we are expected soon to follow on to Natchitoches, perhaps "on to Shreve port!" Had we arrived here ten minutes earlier, we should immediately have taken passage onward, on the "Jennie Rogers," which was streaming to go out, as we came in, but before transportation could possibly be obtained, she was off. We are, however, daily and hourly expecting to march, and hoping for an early opportunity to send this by post, to New Orleans. Wait future development for my next, or till we reach the front. H.
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